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Wagner Society in NSW Inc
Postcards from Bayreuth 2007

The first German stop on the way - Frankfurt

Marc and Dennis
Former Society Webmaster, Marc Greyling
and Committee Member, Dennis Mather

Our first stopover following the delights of the London Proms was Frankfurt. We find it stress free to fly into Frankfurt, spend a night there and then drive to Bayreuth via the sometimes reliable A3.

We also took the opportunity to catch up with my predecessor as Society Webmaster, Marc Greyling who is currently immersing himself in German culture. His threats of a 'heavy but good' Austrian meal at a central Frankfurt restaurant proved only correct with respect to the 'good'. Delicately smoked slivers of goose breast were followed by almost (for Germany) minute slices of belly pork with spectacular crackling for me. The other main courses were wild boar goulash and lax. What is happening to the cuisine in this area? Even the knudel were delicate!!!!

Marc says a special hi to Society members.

Das Rheingold - 20 August

Day 1
Julie & Terry Clark, Ann Trotter from NZ,
June Donsworth, Dennis Mather & Pauline Holgerson

We felt like we were returning home as we inched our clunky and odd looking Golf car though the imposing stone gate pillars of the Gasthof Spiegelmuehle. Our host Frau Scheer was delighted to see us again and, following a flurry of kisses and smiles we then laboriously dragged our suitcases to the second floor. A quick change into our dinner suits and then we headed for the Festpielhaus where we were confronted by, horror of all horrors, a car park packed to capacity. The car park custodians directed us away with an officious flick and we eventually found ourselves in a tiny lane over the hill behind the Festspielhaus. The walk to the Festpielhaus was thus a bit longer than usual. This extra distance proved to be disastrous after the show. We emerged from the auditorium to be confronted by constant rain. Of course we hadn't brought umbrellas! Surrounded by equally frustrated patrons we waited for the rain to stop. It didn't and we were hungry so we headed for the distant car.

Unfortunately this year's Das Rheingold commenced with a fluff rather than the sublime. The guilty party in this respect was the unfortunate horn player, who attempting the difficult feat of playing the Rhine music extremely softly cracked his note at the critical moment in the first minute of the performance. The audience shuffled in distress. Unfortunately one of the Rhinemaidens tended the shriek her top notes and often failed to nail others. Wotan also was not convincing, in that he lacked dramatic moment.

On a brighter note Maestro Thielemann reinforced his mastery of Wagner. The music (allowing for the unfortunate fluffs) carried the drama in a seamless manner. Alberich, Andrew Shore , was in splendid form, as were Arnold Bezuyen as Loge, Ralf Lukas as Donner, and, Edith Haller as Freia. Of the singers Andrew Shore received the best applause. His interpretation of Alberich was a tour de force from the moment he started slipping and sneezing in the Rhine to the end when he departed amid momentous curses.

Dinner at the Gasthof Spiegelmuehle was, as usual, splendid. This is arguably the best food and best value restaurant in town. The food is interesting, light and the Scheer brothers, Bertrand and Mattais are delightful hosts. To add to the pleasure of eating here, Bertrand is studying wine management, so the wines he presents are always interesting. This night we had the Menu - Mozzarella with aubergine puree, Red mullet with puy lentils, Saddle of veal steak with Pfifferlingen and 'home made' (by Bertrand) chocolate parfait with fresh fruit. Yes this IS Bavaria!!!!!

Die Walkure - 21 August

Day 2 1 Day 2 2

June Donsworth with Jeffrey Smart. _________________Hermes, Paul and John

What a difference a night makes. Thielemann was back with a vengeance. It was if he had decided to make amends for last night's Das Rheingold. From the first chords the audience realised that it was in for a thrill.

We had entered the auditorium with some concern because the cast list indicated that Endrik Wottrich was singing the part of Siegmund. Wottrich had not completed Die Walkure last year, he had not been received well at the first cycle this year and he didn't sing in the second cycle because he had a cold. Given that Siegmund is one of only three characters in the first act we had cause to be apprehensive.

There is no doubt that Wottrich is a controversial figure and there is much antagonism directed against him. This night he was in strong voice but to me his delivery is constrained and not particularly attractive especially when singing against a full orchestra. Adrianne Pieczonka's Sieglinde was simply amazing and the strengths of the other characters plus the spectacular sounds that emerged under Thielmann's baton produced a memorable and thrilling night. Edward Dohman's Wotan seemed to have found dramatic intensity lacking in Rhinegold and the final scene with Brunnhilde attained exceptional dramatic intensity.

We dragged a group of Society members plus a few delightful ring-ins from New Zealand back to the Gasthof Speiglemuhler for a great meal and a few glasses each of Frankconian riesling. Some of us were also persuaded to taste a Chianti Classico.

I am pleased to report that this night was of a standard to cause shivers down the spine.

Day 3 - a rest day

We spent our rest day catching up on the Leitmotifs and Libretto for Siegfried. The interactive Ring disk which a number of us purchased a couple of years ago is an invaluable resource in this respect. We also went on a little excursion in the surrounding hills in the general direction of the Czech Republic. The area around Bayreuth is attractive to the eye with its low wooded hills and 'tidy town' farms basking in the (rare) warmth of the late summer sunlight.

After this exhausting day we ate in at the Spiegelmuehle having being enticed by Frau Scheer's purchase of some gamy duck breasts - the allure of a rare duck breast in a Cassis sauce made it impossible to head for another restaurant. The Scheer brothers had set up 'our' table next to an open door allowing us to relax in the fading twilight.

We caught up with Society Member Paul Curran fresh from his concert direction of Gotterdammerung at the Proms. Justice Jane Mathews also was enticed by the duck breast and our 'night off' turned into a spirited debate on most things musical. Our hosts at the Gasthof retreated to the safety of the bar shaking their heads in the general direction of the crazy Australians. As the evening worn on we were pleased at one point to toast Paul and wish him well in his new exciting career move - which, unfortunately for us opera lovers is not in Australia.

Paul, Dennis and Jane
Paul, Dennis and Jane

23 August - Siegfried

The overall quality has improved from that of last year - which is great. The dilapidated school house room setting in Act I generally worked well as an interesting space in which to set the action, a number of questions arose such as:

  • If Mime didn't teach Siegfried anything about the world why was there a globe, and other typical accoutrement of the class room?
  • Why use a meat mincer to start the forging of the sword?
  • How can the forcing of the sword be so silent? (This afforded a focus on the music.)
  • Der Wanderer's entry from behind a blackboard was magical until the board slipped and the door outline could clearly be seen.

These concerns aside Gerhard Siegel, Mime, and Stephen Gould, Siegfried, acted up a storm and sang with accuracy and power. Der Wanderer was once again under powered vocally although his acting was more convincing than it had been in Das Rheingold.

In Act II the Dragon was evoked with coloured light, smoke and the amplified voice of Fafner – it was all a bit underwhelming. Supernumeries continued to populate the stage in a seemingly random manner. The characters sang and acted well.

Act III was a bit of a disaster. Linda Watson as Brunnhilde sang wildly often failing to sing the correct notes. The big love theme was unrecognizable. One of our people suggested that instead of finally portraying the attainment of sexual maturity on his discovery of Brunnhilde, Stephen Gould carried on like a boy who had just been given a new puppy for Christmas.

Once again there was manifestly no overarching stage direction event from Tankred Dorst. On the bright side the orchestral performance again was outstanding under Thielemann's masterly direction, with the creation of large musical arches and spotlighting moments (often in the woodwind) which are often lost in performances.

After the show some of NSW contingent headed for a convivial supper at the Hotel Bayerisherhof We attacked the pleasant food with gusto and the wines were splendid - a Hans Wirshing Sylvana 2004, followed by a Julienas Beaujolais and a Morgon Beaujolais.

Paul Gresham, Pau Curran, Dennis & Jane Call to the Second Act
Paul Gresham, Paul Curran, Dennis & Jane ____________The Call to the Second Act

Day 5 - a Lecture

Paul Curran Lecture
NSW Members at the Paul Curran
'Hotel Bayerisherhof' Lecture

Paul Curran graciously agreed to present a lecture to NSW Society members. In the intimate setting of the Hotel Bayerisherhof Paul, armed with his trustry computer (and travelling office) guided us through his recent direction of Tanhauser at La Scala with Jeffrey Tate conducting. In a thrilling hour Paul introduced us to the realities associated with mounting a major (Wagner) opera. We all felt as we were led through images of the production what a talented team he had working for him. Within the confines of a limited budget Paul and his team clearly had created an approacable, ravishing looking and believable opera. Why he hasn't been head hunted for an Opera Australia production is simply bizarre.

Thanks for a great presentation Paul.

25 August – Gotterdammerung

The Norns were much busier this year, by turning on and off constellations hovering above. It was a bit gimmicky but it was all right

Linda Watson was in much better voice than in Siegfried and this scene achieved considerable dramatic intensity, even though the visual representation of the Magic Fire was bit underwhelming.

The Dawn Music which introduced us to the Gibbichungs was as exiting as it could possible be, with the climax being judged perfectly by Maestro Thielemann.

The Chorus was as exiting as ever. It received a well deserved acclamation.

Hans-Peter Konig as Hagen portrayed a convincing malevolent character and his bass notes in particular were stupendous. Alberich's ( Andrew Shore ) last scene in The Ring as he speaks to his sleeping son, Hagen was filled with drama.

Edith Haller successfully doubled as the First Norn and Gutrune. She looked, sang and acted well as an elegant Gutrune dressed in a slinky white satin gown. Siegfried may not have a need the potion to make a pass at her.

The diminutive Mihoko Fujimura (Waltraute) held her own in the scene with her half sister Brunnhilde but sadly the apparent lack of stage direction resulted in clumsy stage movements.

The immolation scene! The burning of Walhalla was left to our imagination. Linda Watson controlled the scene and she worked with Thielemann to bring the scene cycle to a satisfactory climax. The last moments of orchestral music was accompanied on stage by frenzied Gibbichungs hastily leaving the flaming Gibbich Hall which apparently had caught fire. The last stage action was a pair of supernumeries who walked on stage in the centre and shared water from a flask before finally embracing the strains of the Redemption through Love motif.

The NSW Society Members and their new friends from around the world met under the balcony to swap business cards before heading into the balmy night. We returned to the Gasthof Spiegelmuehle where our hosts had arranged a great supper complete with a a succulent Guinea Fowl, accommpanied by in season al dente vegetables, and a 'designer' salad followed by a home made Austrian sweet that was stuffed full of walnuts from the garden. A nice ending to an enjoyable week.


After Gotterdammerung at the Spiegelmuehle
(Dennis with our Hosts)

Hotels and Eating in Bayreuth

Those of us who have been priviliged to return to Bayreuth from time to time tend to drift back to our known haunts. Your Webmaster is a great entusiast about the Gasthof Spiegelmuehle while a number a members are extremely happy with the Hotel Bayerisherhof for example.

If members are attending Bayrueth for the first time next year please don't hesitate to contact the 'old hands' for advice about hotels, excursions and eating. The food in Bayreuth can be extremely pleasant.

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This Page was last updated on: 27-Aug-2007

© Wagner Society in NSW Inc 2007